Ljubljana (loo-BLEE-A-na) is a small, quant-in-appearance European capital city that packs an energetic punch by night. Ljubljana, at the crossroads of Austria, Croatia, Hungary and Italy, has the perfect location due to its short driving distance to the Klagenfurt area of Austria. Zagreb, Croatia and the Trieste/Venice area of Italy are also within a two-hour drive.
Due to its location, Ljubljana is host to ethnic plates from its neighboring countries, such as the gnocchi (7,50 Euro) I had at Chupiteria, a funky Alice-In-Wonderland-esque café adorned with an up-side-down hanging cow, oversized throne dining chairs and plastic mannequin legs kicking out from the walls. Other trendy, yet quite affordable, cafes perimeter the river Sava, as alleyways and winding side streets link Triple Bridge and the Ljubljana Castle Hill.
Antiq Hotel (from 77 Euro) was my home away from home in the pedestrian city center of Ljubljana. Each room is decorated uniquely, but flamboyant colors, patterns and fabrics are the common denominator. My room included a separate living area, two baths and workspace, so the value is evident. The hotel’s location really can’t be beat either, as Triple Bridge, Dragon Bridge, Ljubljana Castle Hill and the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation are all within a five-to-ten minute walk from the hotel.
The snow had just started to fall during my gnocchi dinner at Chupiteria, where I sipped a Caipirinha and chatted with the bartender before venturing out. As mentioned prior, Ljubljana does not disappoint at night. Ljubljana has a pedestrian-only downtown, so it’s worth exploring the winding alleys and side streets to really find the hidden gems—which is exactly what I did on my way back to Antiq Hotel.
I came across Pr Skelet (Skeleton Bar) tucked in an alley beside the river. The skeleton hanging by the door, accented by a blue light may turn some away, but it piqued my interest. Winding concrete steps lead to a dungeon where skeletons take watch over the pub—some in compromising positions, which adds an appreciated air of silliness to the bar.
Overall, Ljubljana is a city I feel is undervalued and under-visited. I compare Ljubljana to a large Harvard Square in Cambridge, Massachusetts with its creative undertones, diverse food and vast music options. The people that I encountered in Ljubljana were some of the friendliest I’ve met. Those seeking big-city options with small-town hospitality will feel right at home in Slovenia’s capital city.
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Story and photos by Joshua Clark.
