Last week we explored three of Bordeaux’s wine regions: Médoc , Entre-Deux-Mers, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac. This week, we finish up with the Côtes. , Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur, as well as consider the finer points of aging your Bordeaux.
The Côtes
If you’re up for an entire day of wine tasting, once you finish with Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac, come back through Libourne and then head west to the Côtes.
This is one of the oldest wine growing regions in the western world, with vine planting traditions dating back to the Romans. The wines made here are almost entirely red, made primarily from merlot. Though they are usually best enjoyed young, many producers have been working to make wines that will age gracefully over many years. In the Côtes de Francs appellation, Château Puygeraud produces beautiful red wines and blends in some malbec for added spice, and sell them for around 10€ for the 2010 vintage ($14.99). Drive back to Libourne for lunch and then head northeast to the little town of Saint Paul and visit Château Les Jonqueyres. Taste their line of organic wines, which are coming in at 10€ or less for the 2009 vintage.
Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur
Several of the wineries mentioned above also produce wine simply labeled Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur. These are the most basic appellations in Bordeaux, with minimal requirements for using the appellation name. However, many gifted winemakers craft good wines from these appellations, especially from Bordeaux Supérieur. Notable favorites include Château Recougne’s 2009 Bordeaux Blanc, composed of 100 percent sauvignon blanc for a juicy 9€ a bottle ($14), as well as Château Féret-Lambert’s 2009 cabernet sauvignon-merlot blend for 8.99€ a bottle ($11.99). The latter also offers two beautifully appointed bedroom suites in the Château (situated in the town of Grezillac), for visitors interested in an extended stay.
Aging and drinking your Bordeaux
Although you probably hear a great deal of talk about the importance of a wine’s vintage and age, there is not always a clear cut path to follow. In general, the more tannic structure red wines have, the more able they are to be aged over a period of years. A balance of fruit and alcohol as well as acidity are also important for both red and white wines to age well ( well-made German and Alsatian Rieslings, for example, can be aged 20 years or more). The white Bordeaux we’ve profiled here are not candidates to be put in a collection for drinking years from purchase – they should be drunk within a few years of their vintage. Some of the reds covered, however, are a different story. While all of them would be drinkable soon after release, they could easily handle anywhere from two to five years of aging, some a bit more, like certain wines from Canon-Fronsac. The sturdier, more tannic wines, in fact, really should have some bottle aging before opening, in order for their aggressive tannins to loosen up and reveal their fruit. At the end of the day, however, each wine and each producer is different, and the finer points of aging the wine you buy is something all of the wineries discussed here would be delighted to talk about when you visit.
If you are going to “cellar” wines, always store them in a cool, dark place – 60 degrees Fahrenheit is the optimal temperature. And don’t forget to carefully pack any wines that you’re going to bring back with you on the plane. Finally, although almost every Bordeaux wine château offers tastings and tours, it is important to contact them in advance and make an appointment. Personalized time and attention will be lavished upon the truly interested and curious.
À Votre Santé! To your health!
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Written by Michael Brazile
(Image: Erik Soderstrom)
