A kegger isn’t hard to find in Madison – The University of Wisconsin-Madison recently nabbed the No. 3 slot in Playboy’s “Top Ten Party Schools.” But don’t let the 30,000 cardinal-clad undergrads deter you: This oh-so-charming city offers world-renowned bistros and, for avid dairy enthusiasts (like yours truly), palette-pleasing cheese tours. And, though you could easily spend 48 hours eating your way across this granola town, the outdoor views are definitely worth taking in. After a wonderful weekend trip, I can attest to the fact that Madison is much more than a college town.
After unloading our bags Friday night, my travel buddies and I were ready to size up Madison’s infamous eateries. Sardine, situated on Lake Monona’s waterfront, offered an impressive selection of fresh and inventive dishes. The modern warehouse setting set the stage for a warm goat cheese appetizer topped with fire roasted cherry tomatoes and olives, and a pan-seared pork paillard drizzled with an addictive horseradish-mustard sauce.
After dinner, we headed to Fresco – a rooftop restaurant and bar situated on the top floor of the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art – to unwind and acquaint ourselves with the city’s layout. The chic bar’s weekend happy hour (8:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday) is not to be missed: A late-night menu offers quirky cocktails and snacks – think huckleberry margaritas and spicy mac & cheese – for just $5.
And the service couldn’t be beat. Our cocktail waitress offered my companion the palm of her hand – instead of a napkin – for his chewed gum. Like my mom used to do. When I was 5.
But that’s how it goes in Madison. A seemingly out-of-line gesture can just be, well, nice.
Like John Priske.
I met him Saturday morning as I wandered passed stalls stocked with homemade pesto, honey, cheese curds, maple syrup and fresh produce at the Dane County Farmers’ Market, the largest producer-only farmers’ market in the U.S. Priske and wife, Dorothy, drive in every weekend from Fountain Prairie Inn & Farms, located 30 miles northeast of the city, to sell grass-fed beef and, for travelers sans coolers, not-to-be-missed beef jerky strips.
The weekly market sets up shop on the perimeter of the State Capital Building, smack dab in the center of town. Young couples push strollers and undergrads fight off hangovers, standing in line for 30 minutes to pay $7 for Stella’s Hot & Spicy Cheese Bread. The locals know exactly which stalls – like Renaissance Farm’s spread of pestos, olive oils and dressing – to hit before the tourists arrive around 10 a.m., and zigzag accordingly.
From the farmers’ market, we made our way down State Street, a charming stretch of boutiques, used bookstores, restaurants and bars connecting the political district to University of Wisconsin’s main campus. The pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare is a stage for the city’s active arts scene – aspiring acoustic guitarists and jugglers slowed our stroll, setting a pace that matched Madison’s laid-back vibe.
The street’s used bookstores invite browsing. Shakespeare’s Books offers aisle after aisle of rare editions. As one friend paid for her 1921 and 1955 finds, the cashier sparked up conversation about the latter’s inscription: “Kathryn Cross 6/12/64 got in hospital when I went to get my tonsils out,” written in a child’s overly-practiced cursive.
Saturday evening, us “Coasties” splurged at L’Etoile, a gem-of-a-restaurant in the center of town – meat provided by Dorothy and John Priske – that serves seasonal menus “inspired by the small sustainable farms and artisan producers of the Midwest.” The intimate space allows for complete focus on the local food and drink at hand – and a fantastic view of the blue-hued capital building. To avoid justifiably pricey items, I recommend ordering from the prix fixe menu, featuring treats like Willow Creek Farm pork spare ribs, served with cucumber and arugula salad and corn bread.
After filling up, we walked to State Street staple Paul’s Club. More of a draw than its first-class beer selection and gregarious bartenders is the live tree that extends from a hole in the floor, unfurling over bar stools and conversation. I had the opportunity to talk beer with the locals (they recommended New Glarus and Ale Asylum) as undergrads trickled in and out.
If you stay at Paul’s long enough, Sunday morning might require a bagel and fair trade java pick-me-up. “Sconnies” pack into Gotham on East Mifflin Street to soak up last night’s mistakes with savory sandwiches like “The ‘G’” – hot capocollo, egg and cheddar on a New York-style bagel.
Before heading out – and to walk off our gathering food coma – we checked out Picnic Point, a mile-long peninsula that boasts barbecue pits and zen-inducing views of the skyline from across Lake Mendota. A perfect finish to the weekend, the nature walk from town to the peninsula gave us a chance to reflect on the charming streets, locally-grown eats, sights and sounds of this Midwestern town. There wasn’t a keg in sight.
RECOMMENDED EATS
Fresco (227 State Street; 608-663-7374)
L’Etoile (25 North Pinckney Street; 608-251-0500)
Sardine (617 Williamson Street; 608-441-1600)
RECOMMENDED SLEEPS
Arbor House (3402 Monroe Street; 608-238-2981)
DoubleTree Hotel (525 W. Johnson Street; 608-251-5511)
Mansion Hill Inn (424 N. Pinckney Street; 608-255-0172)
(Images: Sardine; farmers’ market, alltrain43; State Street, puroticorico; Lake Monona, click-see)
