This is one of the world’s poorest countries, and yet it’s wealth in natural resources is hard to top. The Himalayas are the ultimate climbing destination, and approaching them takes a certain confident grace. Nepal’s world class heritage, both artistically, naturally, and architecturally celebrates the simplicity of nature and the religious and mysterious daily life of Kathmandu.
The picturesque appearance of Ama Dablam has a compelling symmetry that beckons only the most committed climbers. Initially, the mountain seems impossible, and history shows that at some points, it was. In 1958 an ambitious British team attempted to ascend its peaks for the first time, and failed, but over the last 50 years, it has become the third most popular climb of the Himalayas. With steep flanks and thin air, it’s a feat worthy of intense mental and physical preparation, and gives way only to the other two most famous climbs: Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest.
Entering Ama Dablam at its Southwest Ridge is your safest bet, since this is the area with the lowest avalanche hazard and no glacier travel. Make sure you arrive in top condition, ready to take on the obstacles that lie ahead of you. The Ridge stands at 5,000 feet from the bottom to the top, and on your way up, you’ll be scaling rock steps, ice towers, and steep, thick areas of snow.
Although it’s simple to acclimatize to Ama Dablam, we don’t recommend this one for beginners – the Himalayas are for veterans who have experience at 6,000 meters, and the ability to maneuver mixed ground and alpine terrain. Once you sign on, get ready for several hundred meters of front-pointing.
Lobuche, surrounded by soaring peaks and hastening rivers, is set in a culturally rich atmosphere of nearby Kathmandu, where Nepali culture steeps in the energy of its locals. As you ascent Lobuche, its best to gain altitude slowly at a moderate pace, and take in the Sherpa culture, where you’ll find Tibetan traders, yaks, and villages. Quite technical and boasting an altitude of 20,075 feet, Lobuche presents cold challenges in the form of serous glacier travel, and seemingly impenetrable snow and ice. If you’re just starting out, a warm-up on Pokalde might help you gain the stamina you’ll need to get to the top.
The Himalayas are a kingdom of achievement for a serious rock climber. Are you ready?
