Alaska is one of the most rewarding and demanding places to visit in the United States. The time it takes to get there and the rugged terrain that surrounds it makes it quite a journey, but once you’re there, you’ll experience a land that no other place in the world can match.
Rurally isolated by massive land and a lot of diverse geography, Alaska is filled with both grandeur and beauty. Its natural landscapes are complimented with some of the richest wildlife in the country. Brown bears and wild salmon rule the roost here among stunning views of five-mile wide glaciers and thick, green forests. Among the likes of Wonder Lake at Denali National Park, and the striking ancient granite of the Arrigetch Peaks in the Brooks Range, Alaska opens its doors to travelers beckoning a natural challenge to face.
Serious climbers enter Alaska with courage and bravery. Not only are the climbs difficult, but getting to each route can be fatal if you don’t approach it realistically. Some of these ascents can’t be driven to, and while it might seem appealing to brave the hike on foot, we (and most climbing experts) suggest that you board a small plane that has experience landing on glaciers. Otherwise, getting to the mountain can be more dangerous than climbing it.
No matter when you climb here, you’re up for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Winter weather is extreme and harsh, and the tables turn completely in June and July, when you’ll get 24 hours of sunlight and few reasons to stop going further. Arguably, the best time to approach high summits to minimize crevasse danger and take advantage of clear nights are through the months of March, April, and May, when you’ll also be able to see the brilliant Aurora Borealis. Whether you’re ice climbing in the winter, mountaineering in the spring, rock climbing in the summer, or taking in the sights of autumn, Alaska will unfold its natural beauty as soon as you ask it to.
Climbing here is certainly an adventure, and covers vast and wild terrain. Rock faces, complex glaciers, and icy mountains are inviting to both veterans and beginners. Climbing the Alaskan Range takes the physical and mental tenacity that you would need to ascend the Himalayas, and the Ruth Gorge is often compared to Patagonia – but with better weather. Breathtaking scenery and alpine rock faces saturate Moose’s Tooth, which was first climbed in 1975 by expert Jon Krakauer. After his attempt, no one tried it again for 24 years. Now, it’s one of the most popular trails in the area. Widely known as the most beautiful peak in the Alaskan Range, Mt. Huntington requires the endurance for steep, technical climbing, massive rock walls, ice chutes, and cornices.
The best place for a beginner to start is the West Face Couloir route, which boasts more moderate terrain, but if you’re a true veteran, well-versed in the perils and aching desire to reach the top, there is no other option than Mt. McKinley, or “The High One.” Its first ascent in 1912 approached the West Buttress (now its most famous route) and was pioneered and ripped through by Bradford Washington in 1951. Climbers everywhere are still overcoming the challenges of this monstrous peak, only those who feel the sheer thrill of altitude will ever reach this highest point in North America.
